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EATER AT LARGE: Farmer’s Best Friend
The American Farm Bureau, one of the oldest institutions in American agriculture, enjoys a reputation soiled in recent years by corruption, accounting scandals, discrimination, and more allegiance to...
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Incredible Edible East End Eggs
SHELTER ISLAND—M.F.K. Fisher wrote that “the finest way to know that the egg you plan to eat is a fresh one is to own the hen that makes it.” Mary Francis decided to forego breeding chickens and just...
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Readin’, Writin’, Cookin’
The new garden at East Hampton Middle School. Last year, in a story that some people still haven’t heard, a group of precocious young ladies at the East Hampton Middle School stopped eating the...
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Tasty R&R at Cozy B&B
It takes a special breed of folks to run a bed-and-breakfast. Whereas many of us struggle with the anxieties of an occasional guest, owners of a good B and B relish any opportunity for hospitality....
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The Evolution of Seafood
Ken Homan of Braun Seafood gives some of his daily discards, including these spawny flounder, to neighboring vineyards to use as fertilizer. Tony Minardi used to be known as the guy who sold lobsters...
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Feeling Blue
Christopher Junda offers several blueberry-centered pastries, including the blueberry tart and blueberry crumb cake. At Pat Harbes DiVello’s fruit farm on the North Road in Mattituck, the late May day...
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Escoffier on the Peconic
Like any avid cook who has just remodeled his kitchen, Richard Freilich is feeling some sticker shock. But he has no regrets: “You only do it once.” You see, the beneficiaries of his multiple stoves...
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Short Order Nostalgia
Editor’s note: My earliest and fondest memory of diner cuisine was the gleaming Manorville Diner where Exit 70 off the LIE spills with a looping right turn onto Highway 27. I have dreamy visions of...
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EATER AT LARGE: Good Grub
Health food isn’t just for hippies any more. Remember hard-core health food of a few decades ago? You knew all that punitive dreariness you were putting into your body must be good for you—why else...
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Race Lane Restaurant Presents New Spring Menu Items
Octopus is ushering in spring at many East End tables. Race Lane Restaurant’s version is particularly tender. It’s a familiar dish given a slightly new twist by executive chef Dana Lamel in his second...
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A Few Dishes to Tempt You to Topping Rose House Brunch
Befitting the rave reviews for the Topping Rose House restaurant, its new weekend brunch is a gastronomic riff on familiar Hamptons brunch fare. There are recognizable elements with an East End brunchy...
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Anatomy of an East End Chicken Slaughter
My initial encounter with the birds had come several weeks earlier, while they were still chicks. The farm I work for, Amber Waves, had been considering constructing mobile chicken tractors so we...
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Be on Your Gurnard
Blame Bill Voorhest. He’s responsible for my wondering about the taste of one of the most gastronomically dismissed, abundant and under-loved fish hauled from Long Island waters, the Atlantic gurnard....
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From East Quogue to Uruguay
My trip to Uruguay really started in East Quogue, where I met chef Lucia Soria in 2014 while she was the executive chef at Station, a seasonal restaurant. The South American–influenced menu and rustic...
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